Kaip suprantu, galvoj turėjai prabas su ir be kontrolinių įspaudų, kuriuos deda valstybinės įmonės, turinčios tam įgaliojimą. Kaina priklauso daugiausia nuo (su)pirkėjo kaprizų, bet šiaip turėtų būti vienoda, jei tai perkama kaip laužas ypač.
Kaip ir nėra tokių sąvokų kaip pilnas ar nepilnas prabavimas.
Kaip suprantu, galvoj turėjai prabas su ir be kontrolinių įspaudų, kuriuos deda valstybinės įmonės, turinčios tam įgaliojimą. Kaina priklauso daugiausia nuo (su)pirkėjo kaprizų, bet šiaip turėtų būti vienoda, jei tai perkama kaip laužas ypač.
Kaip suprantu, galvoj turėjai prabas su ir be kontrolinių įspaudų, kuriuos deda valstybinės įmonės, turinčios tam įgaliojimą. Kaina priklauso daugiausia nuo (su)pirkėjo kaprizų, bet šiaip turėtų būti vienoda, jei tai perkama kaip laužas ypač.
QUOTE(error-502 @ 2010 01 21, 09:29)
Kaip ir nėra tokių sąvokų kaip pilnas ar nepilnas prabavimas.
Kaip suprantu, galvoj turėjai prabas su ir be kontrolinių įspaudų, kuriuos deda valstybinės įmonės, turinčios tam įgaliojimą. Kaina priklauso daugiausia nuo (su)pirkėjo kaprizų, bet šiaip turėtų būti vienoda, jei tai perkama kaip laužas ypač.
Kaip suprantu, galvoj turėjai prabas su ir be kontrolinių įspaudų, kuriuos deda valstybinės įmonės, turinčios tam įgaliojimą. Kaina priklauso daugiausia nuo (su)pirkėjo kaprizų, bet šiaip turėtų būti vienoda, jei tai perkama kaip laužas ypač.
Ta ir norejau suzinoti .Aciu .Kaip tik vakar ir pasielgiau -pagal savo "kaprizus"
Tu taip nesistebek ,nes as kalbu taip kaip moku
O as cia tam ir esu ,nes mazai ka moku taip sakant-as dar ne burtininke -as tik mokinuosi
kas galit greiciau atsakykit, ar granatas labai bijo karscio? reikia prilituot viena detale toliau nuo akmenuko, tai nezinau ar nepakenksiu 
tai neaisku kuris is siu yra, jei cia yra tarp ju 
. bet aciu 
pragoodlinsiu
. bet aciu pragoodlinsiu
QUOTE(naca @ 2010 01 21, 14:42)
kas galit greiciau atsakykit, ar granatas labai bijo karscio? reikia prilituot viena detale toliau nuo akmenuko, tai nezinau ar nepakenksiu
o koks tas atstumas? "toliau" turi skaičių, o šiaip aš nelituočiau jokio akmens, na nebent cirkonį, bet ir su tuo labai atsargiai reikia, jei karštą iškart pamerksi į vandenį sutrukinės.
na beveik apsiejau be litavimo. nors tiesa teko palituoti, bet tikrai toli, tai akmenukas net neikaito 
Nusipirkau zalvario. bet koki kieki dar anukams paliksiu . skardos maziausias parduodamas kiekis 3,7 kg, o vielos apie 3 kg. galesiu iki valiai eksperimentuoti
Nusipirkau zalvario. bet koki kieki
dar anukams paliksiu . skardos maziausias parduodamas kiekis 3,7 kg, o vielos apie 3 kg. galesiu iki valiai eksperimentuoti
QUOTE(naca @ 2010 01 22, 22:39)
na beveik apsiejau be litavimo. nors tiesa teko palituoti, bet tikrai toli, tai akmenukas net neikaito
Nusipirkau zalvario. bet koki kieki dar anukams paliksiu . skardos maziausias parduodamas kiekis 3,7 kg, o vielos apie 3 kg. galesiu iki valiai eksperimentuoti
Nusipirkau zalvario. bet koki kieki
dar anukams paliksiu . skardos maziausias parduodamas kiekis 3,7 kg, o vielos apie 3 kg. galesiu iki valiai eksperimentuoti gal bandyk vyrui šarvus padaryt, iš tokio kiekio išeit turėtų
, o kiek kainavo tas malonumas?O akmenukas klijuotas? Klijai nesuvirė?
as pagalvojau ir apie sarvus, ir apie skaistybes dirza . 170 lt kainavo
gal kas zinot, kaip oksiduoja zalvari ir isgauna tokias ivairas spalvas
. 170 lt kainavogal kas zinot, kaip oksiduoja zalvari ir isgauna tokias ivairas spalvas
Radau internete kaip namų sąlygomis oksiduoti varį štai taip
o čia angliškas aprašymas:
The blue color comes from the patina which is achieved by soaking the copper in a strong brine solution of 4 tbl. salt to 1/2 c. water for 4-6 hours. Remove, let dry (don't rinse it!
). You then suspend the piece in a lidded container (like Rubbermaid, etc...) with about a 1/2 inch of Ammonia at the bottom. The color is a chemical reaction between the metal, the salt and the ammonia fumes, so you need to make sure your container has a tight fitting lid to prevent the fumes from escaping and that the fumes can get to the surface of the metal. The Aegean took about 3 hours to turn blue. And yes, it's very vivid! The longer you leave in your item, the darker blue it gets. After I removed it, I rinsed it well, let it dry, lightly buffed in places with fine steel wool and then coated it with a clear lacquer finish.
I didn't invent the patina - it's been around for a very, very long time. I used to sprinkle the salt on water-dampened metal, but that produced a more spotty finish. It's been a lot of trial and error! Another way to get a very fine and even salt coating on your metal is by using an evaporation process. I discovered this by accident when I didn't cover the brine solution bowl my items soaking in. I think there was a fine 'dusting' of salt on everything in perhaps a 2 foot radius around the bowl. LOL To try this method, mix the above brine solution in a small bowl and place it in the center of a large piece of wax paper. Put your items on the wax paper in a circle about 6" - 9" from the bowl. Let it sit over night. The salt evaporates and leaves a salty coating. (you'll need to wipe down the surrounding area to remove the salt) Then proceed with the rest of the patina instructions.
As to the lacquer, there are many on the market. Some prefer a spray made by Rustoleum, but to me it feels sort of gritty. I use two lacquers depending upon what the jewelry item is. The first is Rio Grande's Clear Lacquer Finish. It goes on very easily, doesn't smell bad you cannot feel or see it once it drys and it drys very quickly. What I don't like about it is that the copper will continue to oxidize under it, slowly getting darker and darker. It also rubs off fairly easily. (sorry Rio!) For high traffic items like bracelets, I like a Permalac sealant. I use one that is environmentally friendly, called Permalac EF. Both sealants are liquids in which you can dip, or paint on the product. The Permalac stops the metal from continuing to oxidize under it, so the finish is better preserved. It is also pretty tough, making it longer lasting. What I don't like about it is you have to be careful in the application process as the fumes are nasty! It is also easy to get drips and bubbles in the finish and if there's much moisture in the air (not so good for humid Florida), it drys milky. To avoid much of this, I set it with a warm blow dryer. It does take a couple of hours to dry completely. The above bracelet was dipped.
Just soak them in the brine, let them dry and then suspend them above the ammonia. You can place some plastic screening/mesh on top of a small plastic or glass container and place that in a larger plastic container like one of those semi throw-away storage containers (Ziploc, Glad or Rubbermaid) with a tight sealing lid, add about 1/2 inch ammonia to the dish and container, place your salted copper pieces on that, put the lid on tight and let it sit. You can also hang the pieces and I use a Rubbermaid shoe box w/ lid because it has handholds that make great shelves for wooden dowels or wire to rest on. In about 3-4 hours, the pieces will be done. Then gently rinse off the excess salt and let them dry. Just be sure that the metal does not come into contact with the ammonia.....it will dissolve away the salt and the patina won't work. This type of patina is called, "Fuming."
Jei teisingai išsiverčiau, tai čia aprašomi du oksidavimo būdai
Gal yra gerai angliškai mokančių merginų ir galėtų išversti?
o čia angliškas aprašymas:
The blue color comes from the patina which is achieved by soaking the copper in a strong brine solution of 4 tbl. salt to 1/2 c. water for 4-6 hours. Remove, let dry (don't rinse it!
). You then suspend the piece in a lidded container (like Rubbermaid, etc...) with about a 1/2 inch of Ammonia at the bottom. The color is a chemical reaction between the metal, the salt and the ammonia fumes, so you need to make sure your container has a tight fitting lid to prevent the fumes from escaping and that the fumes can get to the surface of the metal. The Aegean took about 3 hours to turn blue. And yes, it's very vivid! The longer you leave in your item, the darker blue it gets. After I removed it, I rinsed it well, let it dry, lightly buffed in places with fine steel wool and then coated it with a clear lacquer finish. I didn't invent the patina - it's been around for a very, very long time. I used to sprinkle the salt on water-dampened metal, but that produced a more spotty finish. It's been a lot of trial and error! Another way to get a very fine and even salt coating on your metal is by using an evaporation process. I discovered this by accident when I didn't cover the brine solution bowl my items soaking in. I think there was a fine 'dusting' of salt on everything in perhaps a 2 foot radius around the bowl. LOL To try this method, mix the above brine solution in a small bowl and place it in the center of a large piece of wax paper. Put your items on the wax paper in a circle about 6" - 9" from the bowl. Let it sit over night. The salt evaporates and leaves a salty coating. (you'll need to wipe down the surrounding area to remove the salt) Then proceed with the rest of the patina instructions.
As to the lacquer, there are many on the market. Some prefer a spray made by Rustoleum, but to me it feels sort of gritty. I use two lacquers depending upon what the jewelry item is. The first is Rio Grande's Clear Lacquer Finish. It goes on very easily, doesn't smell bad you cannot feel or see it once it drys and it drys very quickly. What I don't like about it is that the copper will continue to oxidize under it, slowly getting darker and darker. It also rubs off fairly easily. (sorry Rio!) For high traffic items like bracelets, I like a Permalac sealant. I use one that is environmentally friendly, called Permalac EF. Both sealants are liquids in which you can dip, or paint on the product. The Permalac stops the metal from continuing to oxidize under it, so the finish is better preserved. It is also pretty tough, making it longer lasting. What I don't like about it is you have to be careful in the application process as the fumes are nasty! It is also easy to get drips and bubbles in the finish and if there's much moisture in the air (not so good for humid Florida
), it drys milky. To avoid much of this, I set it with a warm blow dryer. It does take a couple of hours to dry completely. The above bracelet was dipped.Just soak them in the brine, let them dry and then suspend them above the ammonia. You can place some plastic screening/mesh on top of a small plastic or glass container and place that in a larger plastic container like one of those semi throw-away storage containers (Ziploc, Glad or Rubbermaid) with a tight sealing lid, add about 1/2 inch ammonia to the dish and container, place your salted copper pieces on that, put the lid on tight and let it sit. You can also hang the pieces and I use a Rubbermaid shoe box w/ lid because it has handholds that make great shelves for wooden dowels or wire to rest on. In about 3-4 hours, the pieces will be done. Then gently rinse off the excess salt and let them dry. Just be sure that the metal does not come into contact with the ammonia.....it will dissolve away the salt and the patina won't work. This type of patina is called, "Fuming."
Jei teisingai išsiverčiau, tai čia aprašomi du oksidavimo būdai
Gal yra gerai angliškai mokančių merginų ir galėtų išversti?
Yra vertimo programos, aišku vertimas gaunasi labai jau švelniai tariant keistas, bet geriau nei nieko
Naca, kažkada buvau sukėlus nuotraukas, kaip bandžiau patinuoti. Va čia nuoroda pagal kurios formules dariau http://www.scienceco...inaformulas.htm
Gal pavyks išsiversti su google translator'iu. Šiaip tikrai smagus dalykas
Gal pavyks išsiversti su google translator'iu. Šiaip tikrai smagus dalykas
